Posted at 12:01 PM in Boys | Permalink | Comments (2) | TrackBack (0)
Posted at 12:32 PM in Boys | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
I stop in Fitz Roy because I think it is close to the petrified forest and might have information. Fitz Roy is a town along the paved highway, though it has no pavement of its own. It does have one gas station, a few business oriented buildings, and tiny houses with gravel yards. I go to the nice looking log office of Tourism for information. It’s 1 pm and the sign says Open Until 2pm. But, the office is closed. I walk to a dumpy trailer also marked office of Tourism. Closed. I go to the gas station to buy a sandwich. Closed. It’s not even siesta time. I see a small concrete building with a sign in the window that says Restaurante so, half heartedly, I go there. The door actually opens and as I walk through it metal chimes ring from over the door and a mechanical stuffed parrot wolf whistles at me.
The room is dim. There is a counter and a register for selling snacks, an upright refrigerator, seven plastic tables and chairs, and a TV dubiously suspended from a wall in the corner. There are two men at one table. They stop talking and watch me. I walk over to the table furthest away from them and sit down under the television. I wait. Eventually, a woman emerges from a doorway in one corner of the room. She is a short, blocky, older woman with her hair in a handkerchief and she walks slowly toward my table. She is wearing night slippers and she doesn’t pick up her feet so they make a slip slip slip slip noise all the way to me. I say hello and ask for a menu. She just stares at me and rattles off some very fast Spanish from which I am able to extract the words “salad” and “milenesa.” There are other options but I don’t understand any of them, so I ask for the milenesa and salad. Still, the men are not talking. The woman returns through the doorway that has three signs over it, all of which say “No Entrance”. Strategically placed around the corner there are many mirrors all perfectly angled so that, I assume, she can see into the dining area while she cooks. The men have finally started talking very quietly and I get up to go to the bathroom.
The bathroom smells. The door does not close. There is no toilet paper. There is no way to flush the commode – believe me, I am now adept at finding the way to flush foreign commodes – the button on the top of the tank, the button on the wall, the peddle on the floor, the regular handle on the side, the string hanging from the tank suspended on the wall, the button on the tank suspended on the wall, and once – the bucket of water sitting next to the commode with a dipper in it which I could use to get water and put it into the commode. I know all the places to look. There is no way to flush this commode.
I return to my table, sit down, and being reading my book. The woman returns and literally drops the bowl of salad on my table. It makes a loud clang and the men at the other table look over. Surprisingly, the salad is very good. Just lettuce and tomatoes but it is all very very fresh.
The chimes ring again and the stuffed parrot wolf whistles as six more men come pouring through the door. They are all wearing hardhats. They are all midthirties. They are all very loud. They are laughing and shouting at each other. They see the two other men at the table and shout hello to them. They come in and slap them on the back. Rest their hands on their shoulders. It seems like the men are pouring in through the door for days. Like they will never be done coming in. But finally they are. The door swings shut and it is at that precise moment that they see me. Suddenly all of that loudness and commotion is silent. They are all looking at me. I am looking at my open book. I am not reading my book but I am intently looking at it. The men shuffle toward the large table in the center of the room and they sit down. It is like I am a librarian. They are utterly silent. They take off their hats. They sit. They stare. After a few moments, they are all talking with muted voices. Soft words. Small snickering.
The angry cook returns to the dining area and greets the men warmly. Clearly they are regulars. She repeats the menu and this time I catch all of it – my other options were chicken soup and steak. One of the men orders the soup and when it arrives it is a yellow broth with a giant full chicken breast in the center of the bowl. The bowl of soup is not brought out by the angry cook woman. It is brought out by a young man, maybe 20 or maybe 25. It’s hard to tell because it’s obvious that he has some kind of mental handicap – perhaps a little down’s syndrome. It’s also obvious that he knows the men. When he comes out they’re all joking with him, grabbing his elbow, grinning, and, though I can’t understand them, they are talking in those voices that are softer than men use with other men. They’re picking on him, but they’re being kind. The young man brings their bread to them and he goes around the table pulling on their ears as he hands them a pieces of bread. He rounds my side of their big group and he notices me.
I don’t know why, but it is always me. In New York City if there was a homeless guy, or a crazy guy, or just somebody who had some kind of clear mental handicap, they always approached me. Often, it was an unpleasant situation involving them screaming something unintelligible at me. Once, I was reading a Susan Serandon book on the subway at rushhour and a guy just started SCREAMING “Susan Serandon …jesus christ…susan Serandon..that mother fuc…communist” and I won’t carry on after that. He screamed at me from across the subway for several minutes and the got off at the next stop. After that, the guy sitting next to me turned and said, “You know, I took care of Susan Serandon while she was dying.” I wondered if the whole world was going nuts. But, they’re not always that unpleasant. Once, again during rush hour, a youngish man with an obvious mental problem said to me very loudly, “Wooooowww… you are the most booot-iful woman in the whole world.” I was extremely embarrassed but I said thank you and he said, “you are more booot-tiful than Miss. America.” To which I said just smiled at him. We were both standing (it was rush hour after all) and holding on to the bar above and he just stared at me, from RIGHT next to me. Extremely uncomfortable. So, I reached into my bag and pulled out a book and pretended to read, while holding on to the bar above and being jostled by all the other people standing around me. He continued to stare. I pretended to read while he stared at me for two more stops and then the woman sitting down in front of me said, “Would you like to sit, I’m getting off at the next stop anyway.” I said, “Yes. Thanks” as it got me just a little further from the guy staring at me. And she smirked and said, “It’s not often that I get to give up my seat to someone more beautiful than Ms. America.” These situations are always awkward…and that’s when I actually speak the language.
The young man holding the bread bowl stops handing out the bread. In fact, he is still holding one piece of bread in mid air and he is just staring at me. The men notice this and one of them says something to him quietly in Spanish. I didn’t understand the words the man said, but I can recognize a verbal “wink, wink, nudge, nudge” when I hear one no matter what the language is.
The angry woman appears again and says something to the young man. One of the worker men says something to the young man and uses the word “novia” or girlfriend. All the men laugh quietly. He disappears into the kitchen. The angry woman drops my plate on my table. The milinesa (we’d call it chicken fried steak in the country. It’s a piece of steak that has been battered and fried in sandwich form) and I begin eating as quickly as I possibly can while staring down at my open book. It feels like the entire restaurant is full of men and me. Of course, I made the initial mistake of sitting under the television. I can feel all the men staring at me and when I look up from my book, they all look at the television. I look at my book, they look at me. I look at them, they look at the television. The synchronicity of them adverting their eyes all at the same second is funny and I almost get the giggles.
The son reappears several times with the men’s food. I am half way through my sandwich when he approaches my table. He stands two feet away. He watches me eat. He doesn’t even have an excuse. He doesn’t have anything to say or to put on my table. He just stands there and watches me eat. I nearly swallow the rest of my sandwich whole. I ask for the check. He brings it - $20 pesos. I give him $22. In Buenos Aires, 10% is standard but in these smaller towns I get the impression that people don’t usually tip. The young man is confused and calls for the woman. She comes out, looks at the check, looks at the money, takes the $20 and gives him the $2. She says real loudly to him, “This is for you.” One of the men says, “Ahhhh…something something something your girlfriend.” And he makes the international thumb rubbing forefinger sign for money. The young man gazes at me with awe and wonder and I practically run out of the restaurant. Literally, I bump into two empty tables in my frantic desire to escape. The restaurant is silent. I open the door. The chimes ring. The stuffed bird wolf whistles. I close the door behind me and hear the entire restaurant of men break into raucous Spanish, laughter, and noise. I flee Fitz Roy so quickly it doesn’t even occur to me to take a picture of anything.
Posted at 03:25 PM in Argentina, Boys, Humor Me, Patagonia | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
I had another date with my doorman. No, it wasn’t really a date. Seriously. I put forth all possible anti-date non-lingual multi-cultural signs: I wore my hair in a sloppy ponytail. I skipped the perfume. I even considered skipping the deodorant but I thought that might just be cruel. I wore my fat jeans – the ones that smell kind of funny now and have more holes than trend dictates. I wore granny panties – not that he would get that far, but maybe they would help me send anti-date signals.
We ate at McDonald’s and saw a movie. I know it sounds like a date, but really it wasn’t. He had an extra peso out to pay for the bus and I nodded to my own peso and put it in first. My hands were shoved so far into my pants pockets that I’m pretty certain I stretched them out and every time I sat next to him, I crossed my legs in the opposite direction. There were still a few moments that puzzled me cultural-date-barrier-wise, like when he took my arm to steady me as the bus was still moving, or put his hand on my shoulder to steer me away from a man pushing a cart into my path, or (the most confusing) when I said something un-intentionally funny in Spanish and he gave me a half hug. These were the cues that kept my body language in the cold-bitch mode.
We talked in Spanish the entire time because he speaks almost no English. I humored him with my inability to say sneeze (estornudo) in Spanish despite the fact that my allergies are making me estornudo constantly. He humored me by telling me about his older son who is only after women and has now failed two years of school – it wasn’t the story that humored me but the kind of ‘what are you going to do’ expression he told it with. I taught him some English words for all the new Spanish words he taught me and we walked along Florida street while we waited for the movie.
The movie tickets cost 7 pesos (or about $2.50 US) and I did let him buy them but then I bought the McDonald’s. He had picked the movie and I had just shrugged. I didn’t care. The theater was interesting – giant and antique with a stone floor, and wooden doors with trimming on the bathroom stalls – it was clearly built before plastic was everywhere. In the theater, we were two of four people though there were at least 80 seats that I could see…plus a balcony above. There were no previews for other movies or advertisements, just lights on, and then the start of the movie. That alone caused it to feel like an entirely different country. When the movie started, it was in French….with Spanish subtitles and he looked over at me with utter embarrassment and started spewing Spanish apologies I didn’t understand. I lied and I said I understood French and he relaxed. Actually, the movie was really good for me. I’ve been despairing about my lack of Spanish language but I was really surprised how much of it I understood reading in subtitles without being able to cheat and listen to the English. I understood all of the plot but only ¼ of the jokes, but it was still reassuring. Now, if I could only get that much out of hearing Spanish spoken.
After the movie, my doorman and I parted ways, but not before he gave me a big hug and said “mi amiga?” and then he said in rough English “my friend? Si?” “Si,” I said, leaving my hands out of my pockets for the first time in hours. So dating my doorman wasn’t a complete disaster, though to be honest, I’m not keen on having even a friend see me come and go every single day. I’ll be glad when I move and I can keep my groceries out of my daily conversation and can leave my apartment without feeling forced into small talk. If my new building has doormen, I guess I’ll get less practice at Spanish and more practice at my Buenos Aires cold-bitch mode. Si.
Posted at 11:26 PM in Argentina, Boys | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
| Sun | Mon | Tue | Wed | Thu | Fri | Sat |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 2 | |||||
| 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 |
| 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 |
| 17 | 18 | 19 | 20 | 21 | 22 | 23 |
| 24 | 25 | 26 | 27 | 28 | 29 | 30 |
| 31 |